Los Habichuela

The river Darro that flows through Granada comes from a valley behind the city. Walking up to the Albaicín, you can take a turn right to follow a sinuous road that goes to that valley. Strewn along the hills are the cuevas, or caves of the Sacromonte - the name of the neighbourhood.

Entering the Sacromonte, you immediately feel the different air. We are not in the Albaicín anymore. It feels more like the countryside. Cactus plants and fig trees grow all over the place. And on every corner of the way, the majestuous Alhambra:

We picked our way through the small streets yesterday to attend Juan Habichuela Nieto's guitar concert. He is one of the most renowned young guitarists of today. Two weeks ago, he won one of the toughest guitar competitions: The Festival Internacional del Cante de las Minas in Murcía. 

Yesterday, he played in a concert series which is dedicated to Enrique Morente. The concert took place outside, in the Museo Cuevas Sacromonte. 

I have to say this guy is a monster. I have never heard anyone with such a dense and gripping sound. His playing feels like an animal is biting your heart and not letting go till the final note. It was very intense.

The Habichuela family is a famous flamenco dynasty in Granada. Juan Habichuela senior and his brother Pepe Habichuela are the most renowed guitarists. The band Ketama was also made up from members of that family. The Habichuelas own a bar in the Sacromonte called "Bulería". You never know who might be playing there. On a busy evening the bar will look like this:

When you go in, you first find the long bar behind which Antonio, Juan's father, will be working:

The bar is decorated with many flamenco pictures from the family members:

Rosemary twigs are placed on the bar to bring luck:

At the back, there is an space lined with chairs all around. This is where the fun happens. Anyone inclined from the neighbourhood can walk in with his guitar and play. Those who can sing, sing. Dancers dance. And we tourists stand there and watch. 

Antonio threatens to throw anyone out who won't order anything to drink.

The place abounds with alcohol and cigarette smoke, just like the good old times... Mostly tangos are played all night.

If there is no room to watch, we make our own rhythm.